Colonial Viper RC RG

The Viper RC rocket glider kit is based on the Battlestar Galactica fighter.  The wings are oversized for glide performance and you simply mask and paint the oversized wing portion flat black to give the desired look in the air.  Wingspan 23″, length 27″, weight ready to fly 11 oz.

Printed Viny Click here for Vinyl Decals for this kit

CG ready to boost at 10.25″ forward of the rear end of the main body tube.

Unpacking your kit:

The kits are packed to protect them in shipping, but the contents are fragile so unpack carefully.  Carefully cut the tape holding the tubes in the box, then unwrap/lightly cut the plastic wrap to free the tubes, the spar may be packed in the tubes and the baggie with the little parts and nose cone will be in the tubes as well.  Carefully cut the tape holding the cardboard wing protector in the box and carefully remove it, don’t pull hard or bend it.  Then carefully cut the tape holding the cardboard top piece to the bottom.  There may be some sticky tape holding the cardboard to the bottom cardboard piece, carefully peel it being sure not to bend anything.  Once the top cardboard is free you can see the foam wing/tail parts, there are little fragile pieces in here, so unwrap carefully.  It may be best to use an exacto to lightly cut the plastic wrap and carefully remove it without cutting into the foam.  Make sure everything is free before you remove the pieces to avoid breaking anything.  Kits contain one or two scrap pieces for repairs if you damage anything in construction or flight, just cut and patch in a spare piece of the foam if needed using foam safe CA+.

Welcome to the world of rocket boosted radio control gliders.  This is not a model for a novice RC pilot, but anyone who is comfortable with RC flying of a medium speed model should be fine.  Read through the instructions, look at the photos and be sure you understand the step before committing to cutting or glue.

Identify all pieces, the kit should contain:

1  wing  taped together

1 blenderm tape

1 Nose Cone

1 vertical stabilizer

2 wide foam strips for upper nacelle fillers

2 narrow foam strips for lower nacelle fillers

2 control horn​s/Pushrods

1 body tube

2 side nacelle tubes slotted all the way to the front

1 upper nacelle tube slotted for the vertical stab only.

Motor mount

4  13/16″ x 2.5″ wide strips to center the motor tube

Velcro(for battery and rx/bec attachment)

2 Rail buttons with t nuts/screws

1 canopy foam piece

Lead weight

Notes before starting:

Foam safe CA+(Bob smith super gold + is good) is the only glue recommended for construction.  You will also need foam safe accellerator to set the glue.

You may use 220-320 grit sandpaper and a sanding block to slightly round the edges of the foam if you prefer before gluing the wing and vertical stab in place.  Do any sanding before assembly.


  1. Apply CA+ to the taped  wing joint, and set it on a flat place.  Once cured, glue in the wing spar then tape over the spar and center joint.
  2. Test fit then glue the wing into the body tube slot with the wing centered.
  3. Glue the vertical fin into place in the one thruster tube with a slot, note the tube has a line inside at the bottom to make sure you keep it vertical when you glue.  Set the model upright with the wingtips raised equal amounts and then glue the thruster tube and fin to the body tube keeping the rear of the tube even with the rear of the body tube. Make sure the vertical fin is straight up and down using a triangle or something similar.
  4. Glue the cockpit piece in place inset into the top nacelle about 3/4″.
  5. Glue four 2.5″ long foam strips on  the motor tube using foam safe CA+.  There are three lines to use as a guide, the fourth strip doesn’t have a line, just glue it so that it is evenly spaced like the others.  These tabs help center the motor tube in the body tube.
  6. Install the front and rear rail buttons in the pre-made holes in the body tube at this time.
  7. Test fit the motor mount into the body tube Make sure it fits, or sand the foam tabs lightly.   Glue the motor tube in place, it will inset into the wing cutout slightly and be flush or slightly recessed into the body tube.  **Note, you will need to rotate it so that the tabs to clear the rear rail button and the wing notch!!   Put a fillet on each side of the motor mount tabs and fuselage,  NOTE*** the motor hook is taped at the front, make sure you have the front forward when you glue it in place.
  8.  Apply CA+ to one of the control horns and press it in place on the BOTTOM of the control surface in the pre-made holes. Note The control horn holes face forward and the pushrod should be closest to center of the wing.  Repeat for the other side.  Apply a fillet around the control horn on the the prongs on the top of the wing to lock them in place.​

The basic construction is now complete.

Radio Installation

Note:  Your radio needs to be configured for Delta mixing, this means that the servo arms will move the same direction during elevator stick movement and opposite for aileron stick movement.  Connect your servos to the receiver one in the aileron connection and one on the elevator connection and apply power.   Use a servo arm at least 9/16” long and with holes small enough that there won’t be slop with the pushrod wire when installed.  I use the hole furthest out on the servo arm, to maximize movement. On some servos there are a long two-ended servo arm, you can trim off one end and use that arm to get sufficient length.   Zero out any trim settings on the transmitter.

  1. Flip the model upside down.  Connect each servo to a pushrod.  Each servo  should be on the bottom of the wing, with the servo electrical wire pointing forward and the servo arm pointing toward the wing tip.  Tape each servo in place so that the control surfaces are centered, the servo will be in the middle of the wing.  With the model right side up look at it from the rear.  Moving the transmitter stick back(up elevator) should move both elevons up.  Moving the transmitter stick to the right should move the right elevon up and the left elevon down.   If you can’t get the servo reversing to give you the right polarity try swapping aileron/elevator inputs to the receiver or turning the servos over and swapping the servo arms to the other side of the output shaft.  If that is correct, continue.
  2. The servos may be attached to the model using double back servo mounting tape(not included) or by directly gluing the servo to the wing with foam safe CA+.  Double back servo tape can loosen over time and with exposure to heat, I prefer to glue the servo in place.  With the radio still on, put a moderate amount of glue on the servo, being careful not to get any near the output shaft, and set it in place on the wing keeping the control surface centered.   Do the same to the other side.   Note on my model I placed the servo so that the servo was hidden by the nacelle when installed which meant I had to plan ahead place it so the servo arm just was outside the nacelle when installed and I had to notch the nacelle for the servo arm.  Alternately you can have the servo outside the nacelle.  Make sure the glue is set before continuing.  Apply a fillet of glue around the servo/wing to help secure it and let it cure being careful not to get any glue near the output shaft of the servo.
  3. Attach an 18″ servo extension to each servo. You just need to have enough length to be able to route the wire into the body tube and out the front to attach it to the receiver.
  4. Make a 1/8″ wide by 1/2″ long slot in the body tube on each side for feeding the servo wire through into the tube.  The Slots should be located such that they are hidden by the nacelles once installed. Route servo wires through to the inside and toward the front on each side.  Use the blenderm tape to tape the servo wires down to the wing.
  5. Re-Attach the servo wires to the receiver and make sure they are going the right direction.
  6. Make sure the control surfaces are centered, use trims if needed.  Now measure the control surface movement.  Full elevator movement should be 5/8-3/4″ in each direction, aileron movement should be 3/8-1/2″ in either direction.
  7. If you have a flap/elevator mix you can program up elevator trim for boost and glide and assign it to the flap switch.   If you can’t set the up elevator trim to a switch on your radio you’ll have to manually put in boost and glide trim using the trim tabs which is hard to do while flying the model.  My model needed a small amount of down trim for vertical boost and the model needs approximately 1/4″ of up trim for glide.
  8. Test fit the side nacelles onto the wing and make notches  as needed to fit over the servo wires and servo output arm.  Make sure the nacelles are butted against the main body tube, and do not interfere with the elevons.  Glue in place.  If the nacelle is too close to the elevon and causes interference, simply trim the inboard end of the elevon foam till it clears the nacelle tube.
  9. Use the included Velcro to attach the receiver inside the body tube far enough in that the nose cone won’t hit it. This allows you to be able to remove and replace the receiver if needed for repairs or for removing the servo wires.
  10. I attached the battery inside the nose cone on the bottom of the shoulder with velcro.
  11. Test fit and install the filler plates between the nacelles.  The larger ones go on the top and the smaller ones on the bottom.  I found it works well to cut a slight bevel into each side with a sharp exacto to allow the plates to sit flush, glue in place.
  12. Insert your heaviest loaded rocket motor into the motor mount
  13. Support the model upside down at the balance point indicated for boost.    Glue pieces of the included lead weight  in the nose or tail as needed to balance it. Do not try to fly the model too nose or tail heavy.  Remember, a nose heavy model flies poorly, a tail heavy model flies once
  14. I can only recommend testors/model master enamel spray at this time, others I’ve tried damage the foam surface.  I recommend flat colors as they dry faster and the surface imperfections of foam aren’t as noticable.
  15. You can use a black fine line sharpie to add panel lines if desired.  I used my sharpie to draw the outline of the scale wing onto each wing panel and then used that as a guide for masking off for painting.  The scale wing outline may be included on a  template with dashed lines or  may already be pre-marked for you.
  16. Decals:
    1. Use the pictures as a guide for installing the decals.  The decals may be slightly oversized and require trimming before installing.  On my model, the decal on the two upper side filler plates is installed backwards, so reverse them on your model.
    2. Use the black vinyl to make the cockpit decals, make a left and right side.  These may be pre-cut for you.
    3. use the silver strips for the front of the nacelles and the nose. You will have to cut to fit.
    4. Use the thinner red long strip for the top of the body tube to near the end of the nose.
    5. Use the wider strips to cut pieces to make the wing accents the vertical stab.  Use templates and pictures as a guide.  Your decals may have these pre shaped for you.
    6. Use the remaining wide strips to make the red accent strips on the nacelles, again using the picture as a guide.
  17. After application of the markings use a hair dryer on hot to warm the markings and them push them down into the foam surface with your finger.  They will really conform and stick down well.
  18. Re-install the receiver and battery

Flying:  See the General Instruction link at the top for flying instructions.  Be ready on the first few flights to keep the model straight till you have the trims set perfectly for boost and glide.