Here is some video from my Aurora Clipper kit modified with lighting.
I’ve since added a strip of lights in the nose cone as well which makes it glow and helps to judge size and decent rate of the model.
The parts to do your own version are:
Small gauge wire to make the jumpers to solder to the strips and connect + and – terminals from all the strips to each other. The strips can be connected from any set of pads since they are in parallel.
Red jst connector to fit the battery.
LED Strip Light SMD 3528 Flexible Tape 300led DC12V indoor outdoor lighting rope 5 meter length
Plan battery size, count your diides, current draw is 1 amp per 150 diodes(what I used), so with a 180mah battery using about 80 % of capacity to be safe would give 8 minutes, plenty long for pad wait, flight plus recovery.
I simply applied light strips to wing and fuse to make it easy to tell the difference between bottom and top and give light on the tail. I then used clear packing tape over the lights to protect them and hold them down.
In my Aurora Clipper kit, I mounted the receiver back inside the fuse near the servos via a small cutout in the bottom of the wing/body tube, then added a small speed control or bec to convert the 3s battery to 5v into the rx another set of wires branch off and connect the 3s battery 12v directly to the lights with the battery mounted in the nose. In this configuration it required no added weight and rtf with single use motor is 11.75 oz, slightly less than an ounce heavier than a normal model.
I used white lights along the fuse to highlight the top and vertical stab to help orientation and angled the red/green port/starboard wings, while I left the bottom just L shaped colors.
For night flying, more is not necessarily better, you can blow out your night vision. I found flying just after sundown allowed me to see the lights very well but still see the ground for landing.
Here is my stratodart, flight shot courtesy of Jim Wilkerson.